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It was here in Skåne that Märta Måås-Fjetterström
settled after growing up in Kimstad, a small place in the province of Östergötland,
where her father was the vicar and where she was born in 1873. She came initially to the Historical
Museum in the ancient university city of Lund and, in due course, became manager of the local handicrafts
association for the county of Malmö. After that she joined Lilli Zickerman in managing the weaving
school, run by the Swedish Handicrafts Association in Vittsjö. Her tapestry entitled "Staffan
Stalledräng" [Staffan the Stable Lad] was widely admired when it was shown at the Stockholm
Exhibition of 1909.
Märta Måås-Fjetterström started her own textile studio in
Båstad in 1919. She drew designs for rugs and curtains which were woven by women in the district.
Originally she worked in a romantic and nationalistic tradition, with elements of art nouveau design,
in a style that was typical of the time. But her contacts with folk art in Skåne and her study of
Oriental rugs helped her to develop a style of her own that was unique in the world. In 1934, when she
had passed her sixtieth year, she made her definitive breakthrough among Sweden’s art critics with a
major exhibition at the Liljevalch art gallery [Liljevalchs konsthall] in Stockholm.
Today, Märta Måås-Fjetterström’s works are to be found in the
world’s leading museums including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert
Museum in London, the Louvre in Paris and the Nationalmuseum in Stockholm. Her designs are based on
native Swedish and Oriental textile traditions combined with a skilled eye for natural forms. Like
the great Swedish botanist Linnaeus she studied flowers and leaves in detail, while the occasional
horse or sheep also finds its way into her designs, giving a special rhythm to the patterns.
"Flowers like the eight-leaved stitchwort, the octagon and the rose recur in the
textile art of all countries and periods. However much we worry and work at the matter, we textile
designers hardly get past this handful of usable geometric forms that have been repeated thousands
of times in textiles"; Märta Måås-Fjetterström wrote in 1929.
When she died in 1941, she left 700 designs to posterity complete with full
instructions for making them. They now form an invaluable heritage for the studio to preserve and
to reinterpret in new products.
"She is a remarkable storyteller, this hard-working weaver who finds her inspiration
in legends and in meadows, from the Orient and from Scandinavia, from ancient faiths and from the
freshest leaves, from Biblical quotations and from buildings, from all that causes the imagination
to bloom"; the words of Erik Wettergren in 1934. He became director of the Nationalmuseum in Stockholm.
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"Bruna Heden", rölakan [flat weave]
designed by Märta Måås-Fjetterström in 1931.
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